Brunello – one of the greatest dry red wines of Italy, the pride of Toscana and the noblest of the nobles. The wine is produced only from Sangiovese Grosso grape cultivated within a strictly appointed territory in the neighbourhood of the town of Montalcino.

The history of Brunello began as long ago as 150 years and it was started by Ferruccio Biondi Santi who experimented with a local clone of Sangiovese in the 70-s of the 19th century. Since then demand for Brunello and its reputation has been continually growing. Today one may say for sure that Brunello is a creme de la creme of the Italian wine-making (along with Barolo and Barbaresco of Piedmont), this is exactly the wine in which Sangiovese shows its all-round potential: marvellous elegance coupled with exceptional power of aroma and concentration of taste. Brunello is never supposed to be a “light drink”. On the contrary, being young, this wine is most likely to show rather heavy tannins and considerable level of acidity. Though after 6-10 years its character is getting more balanced and along with spices, violets and wild cherry that are usual for a good Sangiovese, Brunello shows even more spices as well as chocolate, prunes, tar, leather…

At the festival we represent three producers, two of which embody the classical, old-time style of Brunello. Yes, I’m speaking of Biondi Santi and Costanti. Exactly Climente Santi and Tito Costanti were the authors of the first serious wines from Montalcino. Exactly their ideas were caught up by above-mentioned Feruccio Biondi Santi to make a good use of them. It is pleasant to realize that the wine-making technique of these wineries has undergone no drastic revisions and we can enjoy dealing with wine whose character was formed a century and half ago.Specialists will always treasure the memories of two unique vertical wine-tastings held in 1994 and 1995 by Franco Biondi Santi. There were a number of gurus participating in the tastings, including Michael Broadbent and Nicolas Belfrage, and both tastings confirmed that the vintages of 1888, 1891, 1925 and 1945 were still perfectly alive!

Speaking of the remaining producer, called Argiano,it is important to mention that the winemaking on its territories started as long ago as in the 16th century. Should we presume then that the soil itself carries considerable metaphysical power of tradition? Okay, today’s wines of Argiano could be considered of a moderately modern style. But the gracefulness and sensitivity with which the current owner, Countess Noemi Marone Cinzano applies the new wine-making technologies should definitely be praised. Indeed, Argiano’s Brunello is a bit more extractive, more pronounced, but it is in no way at the expense of the breed and the class of the wine.

You know, should anyone try to match that type of wine festival at a French restaurant I guess they would have been pouring the glasses of nothing less than, say, Romanee-Conti or Bordeaux 1er Grand Cru Classe. Don’t agree? When visiting Italy next time, ask if you may have a glass of Brunello from Biondi Santi…

Sergei Gusovsky

Commenting on the style of Vino Nobile on the whole, it's suitable to start from the geographic peculiarities of the city of Montepulciano: to the North we find a Chianti zone, and to the West – the famous Brunello one. Thus, in the character of the best examples of aristocratic (that is the translation) Vino Nobile both the elegance of Chianti and power of Brunello can be guessed. No wonder though, as the principal grape there (named Prugnolo Gentile) is nothing else but a local incarnation of well-known Sangiovese. Then, acidity and roughness, so important for classical Tuscan wines, are at full service to the families of Montepulciano. And each winemaker tries to cope with them in his own way.

For example, Ettore Falvo and Paolo Trappolini from Avignonesi in their amazingly beautiful wine Riserva Grandi Annate resort to the help of Cabernet Sauvignon, whereas Niccolo Corradi and Maurizio Castelli from Boscarelli add Merlot in still austere but very nicely balanced Nocio dei Boscarelli. As for the owner of Poliziano winery, signore Federico Carletti, I presume to suppose that he has to do his utmost to convince signore Carlo Ferrini (the mega-star of the modern wine-making of Toscana) to refrain from adding Merlot in the Poliziano's main wine – Vino Nobile Asinone. Well, sometimes they may go for a compromise anyway, but only with a dash of that French beauty. Wonderful firmness is also demonstrated by talented oenologist of company SAI Agricola (the owner of  Fattoria del Cerro) Mr. Lorenzo Landi: in his Riserva there are no outlanders, only dear to his heart Prugnolo Gentile, Colorino, Canaiolo Nero and Mammolo. Surely, none of the above-mentioned gentlemen gets by without French oak, though the matter concerns a delicate and sensible way of co-operation. Say, some barrels are of the second passage, some are of size larger than traditional 225-litre barriques and so on.

I'll be repeated to say that we demonstrate quite different wines, but at that, each of them belongs to the very important family of Tuscan wines. The family of Vino Nobile di Montepulciano.

It's high time to look into Falernian. With what purpose our quiz is continued: in what part of Italy were those, the best of the best, vineyards placed? I hope, you don't view Toscana or Piedmont as the variants? Indeed, you'll have to choose between Sicily and Campania! And if among the remarkable Sicilian vineyards were Mamertinian (Mamertinium) ones (those highly revered by Julius Caesar), in the Naples vicinity (that is, in Campania) began almost Burgundian luxuriance of terroirs. A special favour was gained by Caecubum, Falernum, Massicum and Surrentinum.

Now, you have all reasons to ask: what's the use of this excursion into prehistoric domain? And the use is that thank to efforts of a lawyer from Naples named Francesco Paolo Avallone, at the beginning of the 60-s of the last century, thorough investigations have been started aiming at reviving of the legendary Falernian wine. As far as being an assistant at the Roman Law department in the University of Naples, Francesco Avallone managed to have analyzed everything that had been written about Falernian by such authors as Pliny the Elder, Catullus, Columella… This amount of knowledge was used by an exploring expedition having discovered "whole" 20 vines, 15 of which referred to the dark grapes (10 to Aglianico and 5 to Piedirosso) and 5 – to the white grape called Falangina (Vinum Album Phalanginum) from what the precious Falernian had been produced!!!

Now Francesco Avallone’s son (Salvatore) and daughter (Maria Ida) are keeping on the business of their family winery called Villa Matilde. And we, in osteria Pantagruel, will try to undertake a "modest" mission of humanists and enlighteners, and introduce to the judgement of wine connoisseurs and history experts six wines by Villa Matilde:

• Falanghina – from the vineyards of the slopes of Roccamonfina volcano;
• Greco di Tufo – the other representative of the ancient world having come to Italy 2.5 thousand years ago from the ancient Greece;
• Falerno del Massico, Vigna Caracci – a rare Falernian gathered in tiny (less than 3 hectares) vineyard Caracci;
• Aglianico – the dominating variety of all red wines of Campania, including Taurasi. Some researches believe that Aglianico is the forefather of Syrah and Teroldego. At the heart of the gene pool are those ten vines found by Francesco Avallone;
• Falerno del Massico, Vigna Camarato – a very unusual red Falernian. Apart from Aglianico, its other organic part is Piedirosso (remember, other 5 vines discovered by Avallone's expedition). And, of course, precious vineyard called Camarato;
• Cecubo, can you recognize, just exactly Caecubian…at least, in Villa Matilde's vision. This is a blend of (try to read aloud) Abbouto, Primitivo and Piedirosso. A beautiful language, ah? And surely a beautiful wine.

Concluding, one cannot help citing an inviting verse from the Hendis bar in Pompeii: "Wine costs an as (the currency unit) here. Two – costs the best, pay four and you will be drinking Falernian ".

Sergei Gusovsky

“Today osteria Pantagruel was honored to serve dinner to Mr. Giuseppe Mazzocolin of Fattoria di Felsina. It is several years that we have happily worked with such wonderful wines as I Sistri (100% Chardonnay), Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia and outstanding super-Tuscans: Fontalloro (100% Sangiovese) and Maestro Raro (100% Cabernet Sauvignon). Vineyards of Felsina are located in the south of Chianti Classico, not far from the Castelnuovo Berardenga that is in the environs of Sienna.

The undisputable distinctive feature of Felsina’s wines is their refinement and elegance. Those ubiquitous “rich and juicy fruit” wines were never the target of joint team of Giuseppe Mazzocolin and famous enologist Franco Bernabei. Balance, demonstration of the “tipicita” of both the grapes and the territory – these are the ideals that Fattoria di Felsina has been keeping bound to for many years. It is that precious word “finesse” that reflects the style of Felsina most exactly. There are only few wines capable of showing Sangiovese’s natural complexity combined with astounding potential the way Fontalloro does. If you are lucky enough to find a bottle that is ten years old, cast aside cares of the day and start a gripping dialogue with an incredible vis-a-vis who is undoubtedly entitled to represent the essence of Tuscan winemaking…”

Ok, all the above mentioned wines are participating in our festival of Fattoria di Felsina. We also decided to add Felsina’s Chianti Classico, which will be a nice warm-up before the heavy-weights step in. If I could dare to make any suggestions, it would have been an obvious one: think of trying all five wines, - the occasion is more than rare!

White wines by Mario Schiopetto became modern classic a couple of decades ago. They have always been prominent for their excellence. Though, that's not the only point. Something more they were bearing, a certain subtle, mysterious charm. For instance, for many years Schiopetto’s Tocai Friulano has been taken by wine critics as a reference point when talking of Tocai Friulano in general. That is the good example of white wine which doesn't reveal its secret at one stroke. Well, at first you will get a delicate freshness and captivating tones of white flowers. Don't rush through. Not being at all embarrassed by staying in your glass, Tocai Friulano will gain its freedom and share its innermost with you. Say, almonds and pear scents or sophisticated picture of spices… I won't say anymore, as I would like to keep some of my impressions secret.

Returning to Mario Schiopetto, why not to mention of a restaurant background of the great winemaker? His father, Giorgio Schiopetto, owned a tavern called “Ai Pompieri”. It was conveniently located in the city of Udine and for many years was quite a success. Wines for the tavern were traditionally bought directly from the producers. One may suppose that the knowledge of Friuli wines did get into Mario's genes... In 1965, he leased vineyards from the Archbishop of Gorizia, and in 1989 he acquired them. The father's tavern popularity didn't prevent Mario from having made a drastic decision to move the whole family from Udine to the small town of Capriva del Friuli. His friends were sure that poor Mario had gone mad. The time, to be more exact, the wines, proved the opposite. By the way, apart from Tocai Friulano, an elegant and aristocratic Sauvignon Blanc is also taking part in the festival.

The red wines of our show are coming from the Masi winery which is a well-known far beyond the province of Veneto. You may happen to come across a wine called Campofiorin that Masi tirelessly demonstrate on shelves of various duty-free shops. In spite of all my disagreement with that kind of marketing, I cannot help making a bow acknowledging the quality level of the product. Campofiorin is produced according to ripasso technology. To gain an understanding of it, one is to recall the most important, I believe, the most recognized wine of Veneto, namely Amarone della Valpolicella. Amarone is made from the dried grapes. Gathered ripe bunches are to be aged for 3-4 months, in the course of which the concentration of sugar and aromatic substances increase considerably. That's why the wine becoms very rich and strong. It's not for nothing that Italians consider Amarone the wine for meditation (vino da meditazione). But let's get back to the ripasso method: after Amarone has finished fermenting, it is to be racked to barrels (for further aging), the remained lees are to be added to the best Valpolocella thus starting the process of re-fermentation. The level of alcohol increases insignificantly (some 0,5% vol.), but owing to this, the very sacramental tones and nuances of Amarone come… Well, now it's time to make an important statement: during the festival rather than pouring out Ripasso Campofiorin we are going to open the bottles of Brolo di Campofiorin that (attention!!!) represents a hybrid of Ripasso and Amarone. A third part of the bunches chosen for this wine are dried and only then added to the then finished wine made from the remaining two-thirds. I hope, now you do get the reason to taste this wine.

Apart from Brolo di Campofiorin, we offer a classical example of Amarone, namely, Amarone Costasera, and also an utterly rare wine (6 600 bottles are produced, all in all) named Mezzanella. Mezzanella is classified in the following way: Recioto della Valpolicella Classico Amandorlato. If you managed to have read up to this spot, get to know that Amandorlato is an intermediate between Amarone and Recioto della Valpolicella. And Recioto is a natural sweet wine that arrives in those cases when the dried grapes gained too much sugar and it remains in the wine even after the fermentation is over. Besides, grappa Mezzanella is taking part in the festival, as well!

It remained only to draw your attention to the collection of remarkable Amarone those we cannot afford pouring out by the glass. Nevertheless, we will be glad if you make up your mind to order the whole bottle. Glad and thankful, because when rather an expensive wine is served in our osteria, this is a confidence credit not only to the producer, but to us too…

Sergei Gusovsky

Now, as we are back to our Italian origin, it may seem appropriate to announce that starting from November 25th osteria Pantagruel will almost literally be transformed into enoteca Pantagruel. Unprecedented storm of Italian wine festivals is to be expected. Just look at the schedule:

• Nov 25 – Dec 4: White wines of Friuli from Schiopetto and reds of Veneto from Masi
• Dec 5 – 15: Wines of Tuscany from Fattoria Felsina
• Dec 16 – 23: Wines of Campania from Villa Matilde

And thus, we are happy to reveal our manifesto: Viva Italia!

Sergei Gusovsky

So, the white wines of the new festival are from the Northern province of Alto Adige and they are made by incredible Franz Haas. The winery was founded by his great-great-great-great-grandfather in 1880. At the beginning of the 80-s of the last century Franz restructured, reequipped, I would even dare to say rethought his winery. Among the things that were unprecedented at that time was the increased vine’s density (of up to 12,500 plants per hectare)…

It's hard to imagine, how Mr. Haas manages to experiment with more than a dozen of grapes having only 30 hectares at his disposal (10 of which pertaining to his relatives and the rest 10 – to his neighbours). A peculiar person he is, that might be the clue. A special one. And his wines are special, too. Say, Pinot Bianco is so confident and powerful to win over my nose and my mouth that I cannot but marvel at Manna doing the same, arranging for additional space in the podium. May something be wrong here with biochemical reactions of mine? Well, organoleptic geometry (if there is the one) also tends to put questions…

Ok, now we are back to Tuscany. Red wines of Montevertine are a lesson of Tuscan patriotism and devotion to the Sangiovese grape. If you are familiar with the wine called Le Pergole Torte but only by hearsay, - please accept my congratulations! The festival introduces two vintages (2000 and 2001)! Unfortunately, the founding father of the winery of Montevertine, great Sergio Manetti, could no longer put his heart into the vintage of 2001… But it is important to know that his hands touched the vines in 2000.

It was exactly Sergio Manetti who dared set free Sangiovese from the shackles of secondary grapes. He didn't worry about bureaucrats and testing commission's opinion, for Le Pergole Torte did embody his dream of an ideal wine!

And finally, putting the last brushstroke on the picture of the current wine festival I proclaim the Moscato Rosa by Franz Haas as a very special and unusual dessert wine. First, color-wise it's not rose at all, rather cherry. Second, it actually smells rose. And, third… Third, an award is awaiting the author of the most interesting comment on Moscato Rosa!

Sergei Gusovsky

The winery of brothers Alberto and Diego Cusumano was first to be met in the Gambero Rosso wine guide only in 2001, and it was called then Casa Vinicola Cadivin. The next year the winery gained: first, the present name, second, the precious highest mark ("three glasses") for the red wine Noa ‘2000 (blend of local Nero d’Avola grape and "strangers" Cabernet and Merlot), and third, laudatory reports on the Sagana made from Nero d'Avola “in purezza”.

The year of 2003 didn't pay great rewards, although, the Cusumano brothers were routinely called "congenial" and "brilliant", and both the above-mentioned wines (Noa and Sagana) again reached the final round of Gambero Rosso tasting. Yet, it was 2004, when Sagana ‘2002 won the "three glasses", and Noa of the same year reached the final. And, finally, in 2005 Cusumano obtained the "three glasses" for both Sagana and Noa, while Chardonnay named Jale and Benuara (of Nero d’Avola and Syrah) got to the final tasting. All these four wines are shown in our festival, plus another white (Cubia), made from the local Insolia grape white.

Diego Cusumano, who is responsible for marketing and sales, is very positive about the bright future of the Sicilian wine-making, naming it "an oenological Etna" ready to shake the world. His brother Alberto, who actually makes wine, believes that terroir is of extreme importance for Sicilian wines. To prove his words: Cusumano are proprietors of 390 hectares scattered throughout Sicily. “We prefer Nero d’Avola from Noto, while our Inzolia comes from the high vineyards at Salemi,” says Alberto Cusumano. “We can get our Syrah from the hill vineyards of Contessa Entellina in central Sicily and the Merlot from vineyards tempered by the sea breezes at Riesi on the south coast.”

The widespread geography of Cusumano’s vineyards means exceptionally long period for harvesting. It starts in August (for white grapes in the Western regions of the island) and ends in October, or, sometimes even in the beginning of November when the grapes which flourish on the slopes of Etna are collected. So, five wines, five characters: flower, sunny Cubia, rich, luxurious Jale, fresh, piquant Benuara, nervous, ardent Sagana and kaleidoscopic, fabulous Noa.

Sergei Gusovsky

We hope Silvio Jermann will not be upset on finding out that during a whole week here, at osteria Pantagruel, his precious Vintage Tunina is going to be served by the glass. It should not feel lonely though, due to the support of charismatic Pinot Grigio and monstrous, oak-charged Capo Martino.

Now red wines are on the stage. The festival gives a chance of closer contact with an interesting producer from the commune of Montalcino, namely, Ciacci Piccolomini. The ancient Tuscan (to be more exact – Sienese) family particularly deserves to be mentioned. It was in remote 1220 when, for having served faithfully to Holy Roman Emperor Friederich II, a certain Engelberto d'Ugo Piccolomini was given the Montertari estate in the neighbourhood of Val d'Orcia. As time went by the Piccolominis gained weight and significance. They owed counting houses in Genoa, Venice, Trieste, various towns of France and Germany. Later on, having got engaged in politics, the family found itself to have been involved into a powerful maelstrom of internecine dissensions, getting out of which had cost them a pretty penny. The parallels between these days and those are so succint, so tragic… Piccolominis always maintained very close ties with the Catholic Church: beatified, nowadays awaiting modestly to be canonized, Joachim Piccolomini; the Popes Pius II and Pius III; the Jesuit General Francesco Piccolomini. There also were other celebrities (to name just a few) the astronomer Alessandro Piccolomini, the Generalfeldmarschall Prince Octavio Piccolomini, Duke of Amalfi…

Though let's get back to the wine. In 1985, after the death of countess Piccolomini, her estate’s administrator Giuseppe Biancini was invited to a notary's office only to learn that having had no direct heirs, the countess assigned nobody else but Giuseppe to become the new owner of the estate (400 hectares) and the castle of Piccolomini (17th century bishop's palace). At that moment the vineyards occupied 2 hectares. In 25 years the hectares amounted to 35, and Brunello by Ciacci Piccolomini '97 found itself on the 21 place in the list of 100 best world wines according to the Wine Spectator. Initially the recognized oenologist Roberto Cipresso was helping the winery, now his line is being kept on by Paolo Vagaggini.

We are showing three wines: Rosso di Montalcino (2003), Brunello di Montalcino (Riserva, 1999 !!!) and Fabius (pure Syrah). I would strongly recommend finding the rest of the text in your glass. Would you, please?

Read about special menu of the festival here

Piedmont will be represented by three producers and four grapes. Romantic, womanly, dancing Langhe Bianco by Paolo Scavino has united three nymphs: Chardonnay, Favorita and Arneis. Getting closer with the latter two is another cause to make sure how unique local Italian grapes are. The composition on Sauvignon Blanc theme is written by Marchesi di Gresy. This wine is a regular, reserved aristocrat, who wouldn't mind to give you a smile, but a restrained one…  By the way, if we have deprived Piedmont of the possibility to demonstrate Barolo and Barbaresco, why not leave the ubiquitous Gavi "overboard” as well? Nothing terrible will happen, as the remaining two whites represented by Elio Grasso and Marchesi di Gresy are wonderful Chardonnay “in purezza”. Powerful, rich, creamy Chardonnay from Elio Grasso is accompanied by matured (vintage of 1999), sophisticated Chardonnay from Gresy. Of course, it couldn't have done without using French oak, but who will say that barriques are out of place here. As a digression I'd like to notice that Paolo Scavino and Elio Grasso are famous for their Barolo, and Marchesi di Gresy – for his Barbaresco.

Two out of four Tuscan reds are dedicated to Chianti Classico. Two absolutely different, perfectly different Chiantis. A really classical example by Castello di Volpaia, with accentuated tinge of cherry supported by tannins and acidity has nothing in common with super-concentrated Chianti Giorgio Primo, which the eccentric owner of Fattoria La Massa, a Neapolitan Giampaolo Motta, dedicated to his grandfather. In Giorgio Primo, apart from Sangiovese, there was a place for Merlot as well. The composition of the wine is quite predictable, as a famous oenologist Carlo Ferrini took care of it. Yes, signori Motta and Ferrini were sure to have been aiming at revealing an absolute maximum of Chianti’s potential, though it has resulted, to my mind, in a hybrid of Leviathan and Goliath. Ready to try? Have the guts?

Two Super-Tuscan wines are remarkable for their purity. The 100% Sangiovese called Anfiteatro by Vecchie Terre di Montefili, in spite of its richness and high extract content, appear velvety if not silky. As for Vignamaggio, it is a pure Cabernet Franc. We should necessarily give the Villa Vignamaggio winery its due: it seems that no one else in Italy but Giuseppe Quintarelli has taken the risk of giving Cabernet Franc a complete independence. To that, Quintarelli has applied the Amarone technique (the resulting rarity is called Alzero)… Recollecting France, to be more exact, Bordeaux, the Cheval Blanc of Saint-Emilon comes to one's mind. Cabernet Franc dominates there, but it is considerably backed by Merlot. Ok, enough of unassuming comparisons. Time to drink! We’ll keep our fingers crossed for you, Vignamaggio!!!

Sergei Gusovsky

Read about special menu of the festival here