However, the absence of remarkable Anghelu Ruju in the list of festival wines may cause a slight disappointment. Virtually, this is a Sella&Mosca’s answer to the Portuguese port ingenuity. You should certainly try this vino liquoroso at the earliest convince. This wine is made of the sun-dried Cannonau, and after the fortification it is matured in the oak casks for over eight years. This incredible wine has an exceptional concentration and unique nature. Please, accept our apologies for not being able to bring it to the festival…

Read more about special menu of the festival here.

Sergei Gusovsky

Though, it is time to switch to the description of the festival wines. White Poggio dei Gelsi is a rare blend of Malvasia, Sauvignon and Moscadello with the splendid harmony of aroma and taste. The next white, called Ferentano, is a tiny production from the 3 hectares of the local Roscetto vineyard, barrique aged and quite predictably will please all the connoisseurs of the modern whites. Out of the three reds, the Vitiano (equal parts of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon and Sangiovese) impresses by the price/quality ratio. It was rightfully awarded the star by Gambero Rosso. Famous Montiano belongs to the Supreme League of Merlot of Italy (along with Masseto, Redigaffi, Messorio, Galatrona, Vigna l’Apparita, Desiderio) and since 1994 has been routinely picking-up the “tre bicchieri” mark. And finally, Marciliano (Cabernet Sauvignon/Cabernet Franc) – an apparent endeavor to show what the chances of the typical Bordeaux blend are in the South of Italy. Undoubtedly, the very Italian, the very intensively structured wine. It would have only gained if stored in the wine-cellar for another ten years…

As a digestive, the barriqued Montiano grappa would be an ingenious option. Indeed, the very unusual grappa. If you didn’t happen to taste soft, embracing version of this drink, try not to miss such a rare opportunity.

Sergei Gusovsky

Again a national team enters our wine festival, and for the second time on the row Friuli is a host of white wines. The winery of Borgo del Tiglio occupying a total area of 9 hectares produces a bit less than 30,000 bottles. Absolute is uncompromising attitude of intelligent Nicola Manferrari whereby he tries to derive the very nature of wine that he, Nicola Manferrari, considers to be reflecting the truth. Nowadays only a few would decide to allow for fermentation in barriques and a rare winemaker would devote an essay to each of his wines. Moreover, if one considers pharmaceutical past and a placid tempo of geographical expansion of sales... To cut a long story short, we’ve had sheer luck. By the way, many winemaking moguls consider Tocai Friulano of Borgo del Tiglio as a standard bearing and his 1,200 bottles of Malvasia Istriana have their buyers long before they are actually filled up.

The brothers Gianni and Giorgio Venica produce the best of Sauvignon Blanc in Italy. This opinion refers to me, Sergey Gusovsky, the author of wine essays of osteria Pantagruel. I cannot but put my name to such an ultimate statement. I am ready to stand for my opinion and argue it. I take responsibility to state that even those who are not used to a glass of wine (or simply have no affection to it) will necessarily react to this amazingly persuasive wine... Alongside with this wine we will feature another beauty - aromatic Pinot Bianco, in which the Venica&Venica winery might rightfully take pride.

Reds of Basilicata will be a logical continuation of the recently held wine festival of Campania. These south provinces are neighbors and each of them considers their version of the ancient Aglianico grape to be the best. Basilicata stands for Aglianico del Vulture that grows on the volcanic soil of mount Vulture and Venosa plateau, the former being especially powerful. The family of Paternoster that is considered to be one of the local patriarchs of winemaking was lucky to own a few hectares of the Vulture slopes. Two Aglianicos will be presented at the festival: Synthesi 2001 and Don Anselmo 1999. It should be noted that only 3 hectares of old vineyard bear fruit for the rare and unique Don Anselmo. This wine is available for sale only 6 years after the harvest and despite being a little heavy it shows a gorgeous fruits that are richly imbued with exotic spices and properly balanced by tannins and acidity. Such a wine could NEVER be found being served by the glasses but you do have a whole week of unprecedented tasting.

Sergei Gusovsky

It is high time we approached the line of red wines. Here, the wonderful Elisabetta Geppetti takes the lead. Her former advisors were Giacomo Tachis, Riccardo Cotarella, Luca d’Attoma, - a critical mass of modern Italian winemaking. Nowadays, the Frenchman is allowed to be the Head Coach. Besides, Christian le Sommer supports little-known “clubs” of the “Bordeaux league”: Chateaux Lafite - Chateaux Latour. Two players deserve a couple of words to be said about them: a fine Morellino di Scansano (called Poggio Valente) and the super-Tuscan Saffredi. The former one is fruity and fresh but still powerful Sangiovese and the latter is a combination of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot supported by rare Alicante grape.

Summing it up, we dare to make a presumption: if you have not become intrigued in the oncoming play, you do not deserve accompanying specials from the Chef Passalaqua.

Sergei Gusovsky

The province of Campania may pride itself upon Vesuvius, Naples and the fact that it was here that pizza became a culinary phenomenon. Also there should be a deserved pride upon the island of Capri and Amalfi coast. And finally upon wines, the wines with long and noble history. It was Campania where the famous Falernian wine, inexhaustible source of enjoyment for Horatio, was produced. Nobody else but Pliny in his Naturalis Historia mentioned the white grapes Apianis and Aminea Gemella, which are today referred to as Fiano and Greco di Tufo respectively. By the way, this summer we have already featured Greco produced by Di Majo Norante (few may remember that all available cases were drunk well before the end of the festival). This time the floor is given to the patriarch of Campanian winemaking – Mr. Antonio Mastroberardino – whose efforts and perseverance in the recent 50 years contributed to the revival of unique local grapes. Alongside aromatic whites imbued with the freshness of flowers and fruits, Mastroberardino is known for its red wine called Taurasi, which is produced from the ancient Aglianico grape. A number of revered specialists put it on the same footing as Tuscan Sangiovese and Piedmont Nebbiolo. If you are skeptical about such a statement, note that it is required for theTaurasi to be aged for at least 3 years and for the Riserva – 4 years. What an obvious comparison with Brunello and Barolo, ah? During the festival two Taurasi will be served by the glass: Radici and Radici Riserva. It should be accentuated that Mastroberardinos (sons Carlo and Piero follow in the footsteps of their father) make a point of not using foreign grapes giving all their love and care to the local ones. However, they are not as conservative in the issues of technology and gladly experiment with French barriques. Knowing about Burton Anderson's recommendations, who is calling upon to drink Radici from the ample Burgundy glasses, it comes as no surprise that we have a splendid opportunity ahead of us to really get distracted from the oncoming autumn.

Sergei Gusovsky

Here we are, the fifteenth wine festival of osteria Pantagruel is dedicated to the province of Trentino. It is likely that the place itself is more familiar to many people than Toscana or Piedmont. The Garda lake and skiing resorts of the Dolomite Alps are no longer secrets for those who prefer to spend their vacation in Italy. Though, it is most likely that only a few have heard of the wines of this province. It should be mentioned in the beginning that the microclimate of the riverbed of the Adige and various soil of its banks granted the winemakers freedom to dedicate themselves to whites or reds as well as to local or international grapes. This explains why the festival will feature two producers - Foradori and San Leonardo. The matter is not only the high marks that their wines unceasingly get. The art of winemaking that every winery demonstrates speaks louder than words.

Due to the untimely death of her father Elisabetta Foradori had to undertake management of the family business immediately after graduation from the wine school at San Michele all?Adige. At this, from the very start (the mid of 80s) she was making her best to secure the future of the unique local grape called Teroldego. In those times not many people could believe that by the end of 90s Granato, the major wine of Foradori (100% Teroldego), would have taken a strong position on the enological Olympus of Italy. The festival will feature four (!!!) vintages of Granato: 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001. Besides a lighter version of Teroldego (named simply Foradori) imbued with aromas of ripen red fruits, the white Myrto containing Sauvignon, Pino Bianco and amazing Incrocio Manzoni is not less interesting. Very bright, awesomely tasty and, regretfully, very scarce (only 15000 bottles) wine. Hopefully, the tedious work of selecting the best vines for further reproduction combined with the restricted amount and uncompromising approach to the quality of each harvest will guarantee a great future not only to the owner of the industry, but to the loyal admirers of her talent. Please, draw attention to the beautiful and elegant site of Foradori. Probably, in many aspects it reflects the taste of charming Elisabetta Foradori.

The producer of wonderful red wines of Bordeaux type Tenuta San Leonardo has been in possession of the family of dukes (marquises) Guerrieri Gonzaga over centuries. An intelligent person cannot avoid a series of associations with the name Gonzaga. The Gonzagas had been the rulers of the city of Mantova since pre-renaissance time. This is the city where Shakespearean Romeo had to go into hiding. It was the duke of Mantova who sang in the Verdi's opera Rigoletto: "La donna e mobile". The Gonzagas had always been the owners of marvelous castles, palaces and gardens, trendsetters in the arts, morals and manners of the haut monde, patrons of artists and poets. Peter Paul Rubens served at court of Gonzaga. In those times the collection of the Gonzagas was one of the most famous in Italy - it contained the works of Bellini, Tizian, Tintoretto, Paolo Veronese, Mantegna, Leonardo da Vinci, Andrea del Sarto, Rafael, Correggio, Giulio Romano. More than once the family of Gonzaga joined in marriages with other renowned families, i.e. Medici. Shall we go on? The Cameo of Gonzaga is one of the most glorified masterpieces of antiquity and pride of the Saint-Petersburg Hermitage. There was also a saint in the clan of Gonzaga, Aloysius (born Luigi) Gonzaga (1568-1591), who was canonized by Benedict XIII in 1726 and was proclaimed the patron of Patron of Catholic youth. However, let us go back to the present time. The head of the family marchese Carlo Guerieri Gonzaga can rightfully take pride in the relations to the elite of Italian winemaking. In 60s he was directly involved in making of the first vintage of Sassicaia. For a long time the consultant of San Leonardo had been the living classic, the great Giacomo Tachis, who was later replaced by not less revered Carlo Ferrini who is also assisting to such vineyards as Fonterutoli, Ricasoli, Fattoria dei Barbi, Casanova di Neri, Poliziano. Two wines are going to be presented during the festival: the refined Merlot and famous San Leonardo. One can tell stories about them that are not shorter than the Gonzaga family ones, but what sense does it make when there is an opportunity to taste them?

Sergei Gusovsky

It should be admitted that out of all wines from the South of Italy - relatively new phenomena for Ukrainian market, - only Sicily and Sardinia were favored with attention of importers to the present time. Fortunately, life goes on, and a serious winery from the Molise province is in Kiev! Di Majo Norante was established in 1968. Company's founder Luigi Di Majo from the very beginning was the follower of the local grapes and his son Alessio, the present head of the family Di Majo, continues in his father's manner. All 52 hectares belong to the traditional Greco, Trebbianello, Montepulciano, Aglianico, Sangiovese, etc. Moreover, fundamental for Di Majo family is production of organic wines, when interference in local ecology is absolutely minimal.

Only elite wines of Di Majo Norante, produced in very little quantities (from 5 to 30 thousand bottles) will be presented on the festival. Extremely interesting is white Greco of an antique grape Greco di Tufo that was first mentioned by Virgil. We should think that the poet used to relieve his melancholy just with the scent of ripe peach and melon, which this wine gives in abundance. The ascending line of red wines (Ramitello, Prugnolo and Don Luigi) will perfectly show the influence of barriques on modern reds. This development is especially interesting, because behind these wines stands famous enologist Riccardo Cotarella who Di Majo family closely cooperates since 1999. "Favorite wine-maker of Robert Parker" creates rich wines the irreproachable ripeness of which won't leave you indifferent. Considering the quantity of wines having got the highest marks of the Gambero Rosso catalogue, only Carlo Ferrini can compete with Cotarella; at that, Riccardo's brother Renzo Cotarella was the main enologist of Antinori for a long time, having replaced at this job sainted inter vivos Giacomo Tachis, "father" of Tignanello, Solaia and Sassicaia. However, the point is not the regalia and names, but wine of course.

Say, what could be better than meditate lazily once upon a warm summer evening about what dark berries and ripe fruits dominate in Di Majo's top wine called Don Luigi? Better can be only giving up (again, lazily) to your companion's opinion: "well, I'd rather suggest a faint notes of jams, spices and black chocolate!"

Sergei Gusovsky

Tasca d'Almerita was an absolute leader of the movement, which changed the viniculture in Sicily in mid 90s of the XX century. Only a few winemaking farms made a point of producing quality wine. Mostly, Sicily gave rise to a flow of mediocre wine, which was shipped in bulk. Disorder of Sicilians in handling such unique sorts of grape as red Nero d'Avola, Nerello and Perricone, white Cataratto and Inzolia was a true tragedy. The situation was saved when the aristocrats from the families of Tasca (Counts of Almerita) and Alliata (Duke of Salaparuta) as far back as 30s of the XIX century become seriously engaged in viniculture.

Originally the Regaleali estate that was acquired by brothers Lucio and Carmelo Mastrogiovanni in 1830 occupied a total area of 1200 hectares, however, the post - World War Two agrarian reform caused it to be reduced up to 500 hectares. Nevertheless, it did not impede Count Giuseppe Tasca, who has been managing the family business since 1957, to set aside a greater part of Tasca d'Almerita (350 ha) for vineyards. Count Tasca was a pioneer in working with Nero d'Avola and Inzolia grapes and in the 60s Regaleali Rosso and Bianco debuted as exemplary dry, fruity wines. In 70s Tasca d'Almerita started experimenting with French barriques and planted Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay. The latter have nowadays acquired the status of classical wines. Another extremely successful wines were Nozze d'Oro and Rosso del Conte. The former was conceived in 1985 by Count Giuseppe Tasca d'Almerita to honor the golden anniversary of his wedding with Baroness Franca Cammarata. This elegant wine was made of autochthonous Inzolia grape and a unique sort of Tasca (the name sounds familiar, doesn't it?) As for Rosso del Conte the minor partner of Nero d?Avola here is another strong character - Perricone. Interestingly, the wines achieve affinage not in 225-liter barriques that nowadays wouldn't surprise anybody in Italy, but in 350-liter caratti - their influence upon wine is much more delicate.

Many famous Europeans stayed at the estate of Regaleali. For instance, it was here in 1882 that Richard Wagner composed the 3rd act of his mystical opera "Parsifal". Among the recent visits the one of Gerard Depardieu. There is a chance that he and Count Lucio Tasca talked about the joint project of producing first Sicilian "vin du garage". One can rest assured that such a prominent gourmet, as Depardieu couldn't resist trying Sicilian cuisine by Anna Tasca Lanza. The recipes of Ms. Anna were used by many outstanding cooks, including Don Pintabona, the chef of NYC restaurant Tribeca Grill (owned by Roberto de Niro). One of the typical Sicilian dishes with Anna Tasca's hints will be presented during the coming festival at Pantagruel, namely, risotto with citrus fruits. However, our Chef Costantino Passalaqua will also share his own ideas of Sicilian cuisine. Quotes from the special menu: fennel garten with Grana Padano; pappardelle with lamb ragout; orecchiette with kohlrabi and squids; tuna steak; veal fillets with chanterelle.

Sergei Gusovsky

And again osteria Pantagruel features Super-Tuscan wines! And this time they are really sweeping. The wines of Tua Rita may be considered marginals. Major wines of this household are the order-bearing Redigaffi (Merlot) and Giusto di Notri (Cabernet Sauvignon + Merlot). Regarding the richness and massiveness they might contend with anything whether it is the wines of Chili, Argentina or California. And there is no specialist at the territory of heavyweight wines as authoritative as Robert Parker. For information, his awards are: Redigaffi 1998, 2001 - 96 pp (Parker points), 1999 - 99 pp, 2000 - 100 pp (!!!), Giusto di Notri 1999 - 96 pp, 2000 - 95 pp, 2001 - 97 pp. One may assume that the comments would be needless. Another wine critic (Neal Martin) determined: ?This has an completely overblown nose of espresso coffee and dark chocolate. Multi-layered palate, immense body, layer upon layer of rich, new oak saturated fruit. This is so thick you could walk on it.? By the way, concerning walking: the vineyards where famous Sassicaia and Ornellaia are produced, are only 20 kilometers away from the vineyards of Tua Rita. On the whole, this area is called Maremma and that part where Tua Rita is located ? Val di Cornia. In recent times the main enologist working here was Luca d?Attoma, one of the super-stars of Italy (he has or used to have worked with such renowned producers as Le Macchiole, Le Pupille, Villa Patrizia). But back to the wines, Tua Rita managed to produce a real bodybuilder even from the autohtonous (local) Sangiovese grape. Try a glass of Perlato del Bosco and see it yourself! As for the youngest wine of the festival (Rosso dei Notri), it is interesting to feel the difference between that wine and its older brother Giusto di Notri. The former wine demonstrates a light and pleasant combination of ripe red fruits? aromas and tastes and may serve as a nice introduction to the Big Boys.

Since the red wines could be considered the specialization of Tua Rita, the festival will additionally feature a rather remarkable white wine from the same geographical zone ? Vermentino (from very modest and little-known producer called Antinori).

Sergei Gusovsky